26 April 2011

Brief Update

Howdy!
I am now 21!!!
This means that I can continue the French lifestyle in the states without being repremanded.
I am sorry that I have been a lazy bum and haven't posted in a while. I have so much to post that happened before vacation! Alas, I was up to it at the time, so I'll have to play catch-up.
But here's what you have to look forward to hearing about:
Wine tasting with French students
Amazing blues group at Le Wesh and an unexpended jam session
Last classes of the semester
New friends and Irish tunes
Oh... VACATION IN MARSEILLE, CORSICA (BASTIA), AND NICE (CANNES, MONACO, AND OTHERS MAY BE INCLUDED)
Thanks for taking an interest in my adventures and I will be sure to update you all after I have enjoyed every last minute of my vacation in southern France.

14 April 2011

All the Hype

This week is the week before vacation starts! 3 of my classes have ended for me already. Only one 3000 page paper really stands in between me and a train to Marseille.

Here's a update on what's been rocking my world since Sunday. My host family invited me to go to the beach with them the first weekend of June! I feel so loved and included. It should be a very fun time. I am really looking forward to it.

Monday went well. Tori, Elvia and I went out for coffee after our literature class. It was a really good time. As usual, we talked about anything and everything. Note to self: have more outtings with female friends back home. Adult women are sooooo much nicer to you on the whole than adolescent females.

Tuesday was my last theater class, and the professor brought us chocolate to share! Unfortunately, I could only stay to grab a morsel before dashing off to see my guidance counselor. I had the unfortunate duty of adding an exam to my schedule. *SIGH* So goes the way of the world. Trey and I went out to (where else?) Le Welsh that evening... even though we both had a paper to write. We played cards and tried new fantastic beers. As we were leaving, the barman James called to us: "A demain!" ("See you tomorrow!"). Naturally, we were obligated to go back the next night... and this time, out of celebration instead of procrastination.

I finished that dissertation an hour before it was due on Wednesday, skipping all of my morning classes to do so. All was well. i missed nothing but reruns of previous lectures and received no new homework. That evening, Trey and I faithfully trekked back to Le Welsh. It was much crowded than the night before, so we were forced to brave the upstairs room alone. James came up and recommended great beers to us. I'd just like to point out that I have never had a bad drink at this bar. And I have never repeated beverage orders, either (except for vin chaud when it was colder out one time). After we finished those, we stole a table downstairs, closer to the action. James came over and recommended our second round to us, and it was just as we were starting in on our final drinks of the evening that a man with an accordion got up and started playing traditional French tunes. Yeah, it was awesome. As we went up to pay, James asked us our first names! Wow, I'm a regular at a bar. That's a strange concept to grasp. It's a great feeling! I went to bed last night feeling very happy, reading emails I had received from people that I love and miss.

Today has been alright. My last translation class ever! And I had a meeting with Robert over lunch about spring break plans. Lunch was at the Restau U, where you can get a mediocre 3 course meal for 3 euros. It's a pretty good deal. We were joined by a lot of other ERASMUS students. It was a good time. Then me and Robert went to print of receipts and purchase train tickets. The blisters from his terrible sunburn on his face are almost healed. He won't dare forget to put on sunscreen with a dermatologist's daughter around. The afternoon has been spent catching up on blog posts! It's a productive form of procrastination.

Now onto the BIG NEWS: I won't be coming home until July 1st. It's official! I called and changed my ticket date with the airline. I will be WWOOFing instead. This is an international program present in over 50 countries that allows you to learn about sustainable living hands-on. I will get to work on an organic farm in France with free room and board and food. As of this evening, I have narrowed it down to 2 options. More news on that as I make my final decision.

Now, I must get my rest. Tomorrow is a big day: wine tasting all morning and most of the afternoon, then off with Robert to talk about our trip some more and to exchange music!

Family is a Privelage

I had a very productive but uneventful Saturday.
Spent the whole day in the library attempting to do work. I may or may not have failed to be as productive as I should have been due to the fact that I may or may not have brought my iPod with me.
When I got home, Benoit and one of Anne's older sisters who was visiting were bottling up the second box of wine. I got there in time to apply all the labels. It was a very relaxing time, with all the windows and doors wide open to let the house breathe and embrace the sweet spring fragrances carried on the gentle breeze. Dinnertime was very lively and delicious. I head out early to meet Trey after his daytrip with ERASMUS. Of course, we had planned to head on over to Le Welsh.

I almost did not recognize him. Trey had a giant red beard that he had been boasting for the past year and a half. Last Thursday, he decided to shave it all off. It was a startling contrast. I still managed to point him out because of his sandals, jacket and backpack that he sported every day. I believe the first words that I said to him were, "Your chin is gone." We had a good laugh, then I asked how his wife reacted to his change of facial hair. He said she liked it alright. Honestly, it took a few hours for me to get used to.

The walk over to Le Welsh was a refreshing one. As soon as we walked in, the barmen recognized me, but were taken aback by Trey's nude face. One thing I love about Le Welsh is that their beer list is endless. I've gone in and tried something new every time. Saturday was the day for me to try vin chaud. This is hot, spiced red wine, and it is absolutely delicious. I'll definitely be making it in the fall and winter for my family and friends. We did not stay very long that night, as both Trey and I were exhausted from the day. Besides, Sunday was a big day, and I needed my rest.

Sunday was the reunion of Anne's family at our house. About two or three times a year, and her siblings all like to get together and catch up. This was the first meeting of the year. Anne is the youngest of 6 children, with 3 older sisters and 2 older brothers. They came from a very Catholic background (Anne is the only daughter that doesn't have "Marie" in her first name... but it is her second middle name). Almost all of them brought their spouses, so we had 9 extra people in the house starting at 11am.

It was a very traditional French gathering: hors d'oeuvre and amuse-bouches accompagnied by apéritifs from the beginning until around 2pm. Then, we all gathered inside for a very large meal and some great red wine with fresh baguettes and delicious cheeses. It was so much fun just being a part of all the conversation and bantering with all the aunts and uncles that had come to visit. Manon and I were definitely the odd ones out, but it was still a great time. After such a luxurious lunch, we retired once more to the patio outdoors for dessert, fruit salad, and accompanying beverages (coffee, tea, rosé, and a very strong alcohol made from plums that I could barely have a sip of). It was such a wonderful afternoon! The whole dining and talking and digesting process lasted until 5 in the afternoon. Anne has such a nice family! They're all amazing, open people. When I told her this, her response was, "Yes, we are very lucky." The next dinner of the siblings is at the end of May... and I was invited!

This is how I want my family to function. Corinne and Andra and I should make a point of maintaining a close connection like that as we get older. It's funny how going away has made me realize how important these relationships really are.

12 April 2011

Girls' Night Out

I last posted on Friday afternoon. It was my last Friday course for the semester! So, to celebrate, Elvia, Tori, and I had a night on the town.

We had heard about this AMAZING pizza place right across from the château called Le Napoli that we had been meaning to try forever. We had to make a reservation, which is absolutely unprecidented in France. It's always crowded. And it certainly lived up to the reputation. The pizza was magic on a crust!!! And the spicy oil they had to flavor it up was a gift from heaven, to be sure. That was the best, freshest pizza I have ever eaten. Elvia, Tori, and I hung out in that restaurant for a good 2 hours, drinking rosé and talking up a storm. Oh, it was such a wonderful dinner out.

Next stop: where else but Le Welsh? Elvia and Tori had never been, and I had to introduce them to my favorite bar of all time. We found a nice cozy table in the back of the bar and sipped slowly on our delicious beverages. We talked about everything: relationships, drunk stories, our families back home, travel plans after exams, panic about a shared exam, and the experience we've gained while living in France. It was such a great, relaxing evening filled with laughter, good friends, and great food.

I need to take the time to do that more often here, but especially make it a part of my life back home. What kind of philosopher would I be if I never took the time to live my life and get to know other people?

08 April 2011

Geeking OUT!!!

I arrived in Angers just in time to bike from the train station to class. It was the last class for History of Art. We talked about conceptual art and Andy Warhol. I was just glad to have that 3 hour long drain of energy over with. I was also one of the only students who did the take-home exam and I got a 15/20!!! You may be thinking: "Hold up, now! A fifteen out of twenty isn't something to be celebrating." Au contraire, it is great cause for celebration. That, my friend, is equivocal to an "A" in the American system!
*A brief note about the french grading system: it's bizarre beyond comprehension. An 18/20 is reserved for the gods. A 10/20 is the equivalent of a "C" average. Yeah, I don't get it, either.
Now, I don't have to take that exam and I know that I did well in the class. Win-Win!

That evening, I started my concrete plans for WWOOFing. Okay, I know that you're all thinking, "What the crap is this mysterious thing that Teddi keeps mentioning?!" Well, the time has come to explain myself. WWOOFing is an international organisation that encourages a sort of cultural exchange: you get to stay for free on an organic farm in exchange for working. It's a great opportunity to learn about sustainable agriculture, as well as do something useful and easy on your wallet durring the summer. There are over 50 countries with these exchanges (including the United States) and I figured I might as well extend my sejour in France with something I really want to do that is meaningful. Not sure which one I am going to choose yet, or even if it is feasable with my financial situation, but I GET EXCITED ABOUT THINGS!!! More on WWOOFing to come as the month wears on.

Today was my last ever Literature and Philosophy course. My Fridays are completely open now! It was a good last class. We talked about the influences Lettres persanes has had on french literature and the second half of class was a show-and-tell kind of deal. One of the librarians brought in a cartful of books that were published in the 18th century that would be useful sources for some of us. That's right! I spent the second half of class leafing through books that are 281 years old!!! They smelled fantastic and had beautiful prints in them. There was a palpable feeling of geeky excitement as we passed around and leafed through the books together. Oh, it was fantastic. I've never worked with sources that old. It was super exciting.

This afternoon, I had a lovley talk with Anne in the garden and then sat down to do some more research on the whole WWOOFing thing. It's so beautiful outside that I'm going to call it quits and go meandering for a bit. All the windows are flung wide open to embrace the weather. But that just doesn't compare to walking outside.

07 April 2011

They Don't Have Teaspoons in France

So... I haven't posted in a while. Prepare yourself for a long two-part history of an amazing week!
Monday held nothing out of the ordinary, aside from great conversation with my friend Elvia and an amazing Holocaust Literature class where we talked about Emmanuel Levinas!!! It made my day. I also found out about a great program called WWOOFing, but more on that later.

Tuesday was another gorgeous spring day with an interesting afternoon class about acting theory. I love that class when there are lots of weird videos involved that show different acting techniques. But the week didn't get truly great until that afternoon. I had an amazing skype date with my family! Then came a very lovely encounter with my host family at dinner. Anne had a meeting and was not eating with us. It was just me, Benoit, and Manon. As we were clearing the table after dinner, Manon blurted out the phrase "little spoon". I burst out laughing and asked her why she said that. Then, I got to explain the term "little spoon" to my host sister and she had a good laugh with me (it should be noted that the "little spoon" is the person who is being cuddled with when two people are napping facing the same direction, and therefore the person hugging them is the "big spoon"). Benoit still didn't get it. It would be hard for spoons to spoon in France, as they only come in two sizes: tiny for eating dessert or stiring one's tea, and monstorous for eating soup.
Admittingly, I had a lot of homework to do, but I could not pass up the opportunity to see some live music at my favorite bar, Le Welsh. Trey and I met up at le Jardin de Mail:
It's a gorgeous place and one of the many wonderful parks that are magnificent in the spring. From there, it's just a short walk to Le Welsh. Trey and I split some La Piautre, and the bartender told us that it's named after a special type of rudder used on the barges that transport goods along the Loire river:
I have to bring some back! It's delicious, and an organic brew produced locally. The live music was fantastic. It was all Irish reels and jiggs performed by a group with traditional instruments. They were the perfection of franglais, half of them speaking in english and the other half in french. However, the main force of communication was the music. They played together so well! Ah, it was gorgeous. We met a Quebecois at the bar who recognised Trey from a CouchSurfing event (he has a giant red beard and is therefore hard to miss). We talked with him for a long time before heading home after midnight.

I woke up early on Wednesday to finish my essay for a class that afternoon, but my day was still very good with that aside. Robert and I had made a dinner date to check out a mexican restaurant in the centre ville as we were both craving mexican. It had gotten good reviews from my Parisian friend Sofia. We met up at around 6:30, and the restaurant didn't open for an hour. We hung out barefoot in le Jardin des Plantes behind the castle and cathedral, right along the river. Being barefoot in the shade and talking about everything and anything was so wonderful. I even managed to forget my extreme hunger for a bit. The restaurant did not disappoint. I had my first margerita (which was 50% tequila, I am sure) and the meal was delicious. Robert and I had fresh-out-of-the-oven brownies for dessert. We ended the evening early (around 9:30) but it was magnificent none the less.

The next morning, I took the train to Nantes because I was out of soap. Sounds silly, doesn't it? But I found this amazing new brand of all natural, vegeterian, economically responsible products that I adore. I refuse to use anything else. Best showers I have ever taken, I kid you not. These products make me feel like a goddess. So it's worth 10 euros and a short train ride to get what I want. After buying what I needed, I had plenty of time before I had to catch the train home. So, I went walking. I walked around the castle for a bit:
It was gorgeous. Ah, I took my time with this one. I did not actually enter the castle, but rather took a walk around it. There is a lovely park and public garden. All of the mothers were out with their children:
It was such a beautiful morning. After a walk around the castle, I went to a public gardens right across from the train station. Oh, so many gorgeous things to see! It was very well planned and had amazing groups of flowers and little grottos and waterfalls. I took my time meandering about, and encountered two brothers from Senegal. We became fast friends and spent a good amount of time sitting in the shade, talking about politics and ignorance and traveling. They thougth I was German and were shocked to hear that I was American. They were really cool. French men have no problem making advances. None at all. We both had different trains at the same time, so they saw me off at the station. The week was going great for me, and springtime in France is the most magical time!

03 April 2011

Enjoying France > Doing Homework

I woke up this morning with every intention of completing an outline for two of my essays and finishing my bibliography for my Montesquieu research paper. None of this has been accomplished.

I took a wonderful, relaxing shower and brought all of my study material downstairs because surrounding myself with onlookers keeps me motivated (lest they be judging me). Alas, breaking in the most recent album by The National and the sudoku in this week's TV guide seemed much more important.

Then I was distracted by wine-bottling and lunch-eating. Benoit made the best soup that I have ever eaten today. Oh, it was super delicious! and included fresh organic spinach from a local farmer. We also had a guest over for lunch. Diane is a german teacher at a local high school and her youngest son (who is my age) is currently in the hospital with a very mysterious intestinal complication. She's a bit akward, but very kind and fun to talk to.

After our delicious lunch, Anne, Diane, and I went and picked up Philippe (another friend) and went for a lovely walk along one of the canals. It was overcast and cool, but the springtime was still palpable and everything was so green and smelled so fresh.

The first irises of the season have begun to show their beautiful colors. This is a real fleur du lys:
Legend has it that the reason that the fleur du lys (an iris flower) is the symbol of France dates all the way back to the first french king, Roi Charlemagne. He managed to hide from enemy forces by crouching in a grove of irises. It was a miracle that they did not spot him, so he honored the flower that saved his life by making it the symbol of his kingdom.
The walk along these gentle country roads was fantastic and relaxing. It gave me time to think. And I made a new friend: Sisi, Philippe's dog. The whole 2 hour walk was sublime:
At the end of the path where we parked the car, there is a little corral with one beautiful chestnut stallion. The path runs along the back yards of people with homes in the country. And that was where I spotted this little guy:

He was less than a year old and was so beautiful. He doesn't like people much, as he stayed hidden behind that tree the whole time. French kittehs are the cutest and they're EVERYWHERE. There is one cat that is a friend of Poupousse's that belongs to the neighbors who sometimes mannages to sneak inside the house. He's adorable as well and rather small. It's good to know that Poupousse has friends aside from the chickens.

Upon returning from the walk, there was very little time before Pappi, Mammita, and Maxime came over for dinner. Pappi and Mammita tried to convince me to try some of the meat dish, but I was content with my stir fry and basmati rice. Dessert was fantastic. Mammita had made some coconut flan that was exquisite. And that tarte Anne and I had made was super scrumptious as well. Now, I'm sitting here attempting to find the motivation to at least complete one thing from my list before I go to sleep. Wether or not that turns out to be a successful venture has yet to be determined.

How to Bottle Wine

Even in France, good wine is expensive. So my host family has a neat way of saving money and recycling wine bottles: They bottle the wine themselves.
Benoit asked me yesterday if I'd be interested in helping him. Of course, I said yes.
The wine was shipped to the house in 2 enormous boxes, each holding 10 L (enough to fill 27 bottles, or over 2.5 gallons) with accompanying labels and corks.
Benoit has been saving bottles for quite some time, soaking them to get their original labels off and cleaning them to start with a fresh flavor:
Each bottle has the crest of Roi René d'Anjou imprinted on it, as the original contents were wines of the Anjou region. As an added twist, we were only using these bottles for the red wine from Anjou. Benoit really likes the symbolism involved.
After gathering all of the bottles, you begin filling them with the wine:
You fill the bottle up until there are 5 centimeters (2 inches) of space left in the neck. Next comes the fun part: inserting the cork.
The Bertrand-Rome family keeps a nifty machine on hand to make this process possible:
You place the cork in the hole at the top of the mechanism. Next, you position the bottle on an adjustable paltform beneath it, making sure to aline the lip of the bottle with the ridge indicating the position of the cork. Then pull down on the lever, which maneuvers the cork into position above the bottle while the metal rod in the middle of the lever forces the cork into the bottle. It's really very nifty. Benoit and I formed a kind of efficient assembly line: he filled the bottles while I corked them.
After all 27 bottles were filled with red wine and corked and the bag within the box was empty, it was time to apply the new labels. Believe it or not, we used milk as the adhesive. After filling a bowl with said milk, we dipped each label into it, then placed it carefuly on each bottle wipping away the excess milk with a cloth.
Benoit did the first several bottles, then we commenced to form a second assembly line: I applied the labels and set the bottles aside to dry, while Benoit ran the fresh bottles down to the cellar four at a time.
And that, ladies and gentleman, is how you bottle your own wine at home.

It's cost effective and better for the environment. Plus, it's a lot of fun!

02 April 2011

All Things New

A lot has happened since the last time that I posted.
For one thing, I have now seen every single episode of Twin Peaks ever... and am convinced that I will never ever sleep soundly ever again.
I've registered for my classes next semester, which should be a great time. I can't believe it's senior year already!!!

A bunch of other things have happened that are more France related.

My host mother and I are getting along really really well. We've had some very deep heart-to-heart conversations about cultural differences and similarities, as well as story swapping time. As always, the food she cooks is most excellent, and not but a few minutes ago, I helped her make an apple and rhubarb tart. The rhubarb is fresh from the garden out back. And the crust is a traditional french recipe. Needless to say, I am super excited to taste it tomorrow:

We had a little celebration here on Thursday evening. Maxime and Charlie came over for dinner and we ordered Domino's (it tastes better over here). It was the 20th anniversary of the purchase of their house. When they first moved in, Maxime and Charlie, who were very little, were afraid to go too far into the garden because it was so big. Benoit showed me a photo album of what their house was like when they first moved in, as well as all of the construction that they did on it. It's absolutely amazing how much they managed to transform their little house into a beautiful home. I've noticed similar traits between how the kids function here and in my family. Maxime and I have similar personality traits, as do Charlie and Corinne. Manon is much surlier than Andra at this point, but give it a year and who knows.

I spent Friday in my room. Saturday I ventured out to the library. It was an absolutely gorgeous day out today. The bike ride was fantastic. I nabbed my usual spot by the window to look out onto the garden and playground while I studied. Going into the centre ville for lunch, everyone was eating outside. I hope it is this nice again tomorrow. My host parents are taking me on a walk rain or shine. And I would also like to spend some time at the castle. All museums and national monuments are free the first Sunday of every month. I get in free most places anyways because I'm a student, but it's still awesome to get a group together. Plus, the château is one of my favorite places to hang out in Angers.

I only have three more weeks of classes! Then time for a well-earned break in the south of France. But between me and that happy goal rest 3 papers and numerous other assignments. We'll see how this goes.