Paris: the city where anything goes

So... I haven't posted in a few days. You could say I was exhausted after meandering through the city, or you can classify it as laziness. I will allow you to decide for yourself.

Here is what you missed in my life:

The last day of February, I found myself meandering through the Jardin Tuileries. It's a beautiful, long garden which connects the Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay, and l'Orangerie. Each little nook is either filled with the marble figure of one Greek god or another, or astonishing modern works. It took me a very long time to wander through most of this beautiful place. There are also four restaurants, several carrousels, a playground, and lots of fountains. This is what the Louvre looks like from behind the grand fountain:

Yeah, it's absolutely immense. That arc with all the gilded work? It's about 50 feet tall. And it's a good ways away from the Louvre itself. Just to give you some sort of idea of why a single visit to the Louvre for an art lover is futile.

I did not visit either the Louvre or the Musée d'Orsay that day. Instead, I made for l'Orangerie after meal one (side note: best tiramisu ever). L'Orangerie is the site of Monet's Nymphéa series. For those of you who aren't up on the history of it, these are ENORMOUS panels (8 exactly) that cover the walls of two large oval rooms. Monet spent 20-something years working on these masterpieces and the museum was not openned until he was finished. It's truly amazing! I have visited Giverny twice (Monet's house and giant gardens) and to look at the paintings feels exactly as if you were on a boat in the middle of his Japanese lake, taking in all of the beauty that surrounds you. Then again, that was his intent all along. The basement of l'Orangerie houses some beautiful works by Renoir, Picasso (early-- none of that cubist stuff), Cezanne, and many others. Oh, it was fantastic!!!

After exiting the museum out onto the Place de la Concorde (oh yeah, that's right!), I was struck by this:

So this is where the French have been hiding Rodin's "The Kiss". I stood there, staring at it for a good five minutes before I could bring myself to moving on. This piece is so well known that it may be kitch to many, but it will always be sublime in its naked honesty and raw emotion in my eyes.

Next was a walk traversing the Place de la Concorde. The Champs-Élysée is just a bit of a walk from there, and that was my end goal. On the way, however, I was distracted by (what else?) a shiny object on the horizon. "Ooooh! Perhaps it is the Panthéon!" I thought to myself excitedly, so I made a beeline for it, taking this picture from the bridge that I crossed:

Alas, all that walking away from my final destination was for naught. I had stumbled upon les Invalides. The gold dome that resembles so greatly the last resting place of Rousseau and Voltaire and many others was, in fact, the tomb of Napoleon and the attached museum on the military history of France. I had already visited Napoleon's tomb and it wasn't worth doing a second time. I had never seen the museum, but war really cramps my style (the general tendancy of non-violent activists, I find) and I wasn't about to pay to see the evolution of the tools and techniques that the French used to kill other people. Here's what it looks like before you enter (notice the gold spire indicating Napoleon's final resting place):

About-face for me, and I walked back over to the other bank of the Seine to continue my sojourn to l'Arc de Triomphe.
I reached the Champs-Élysée with tired feet and a bladder that was about to explode, so I purchased a movie ticket because I could satisfy both needs (side note: the lack of public restrooms in France is rather distressing and irritating, and you're not allowed to use the restrooms in establishments unless you pay for the food; some places-- *cough* Starbucks *cough*-- have coded locks on the doors with the code printed on the reciept). I ended up seeing Les Femmes du 6e étage, which was nothing short of fantastic.

Upon entering the real world again, I did what every person does along the Champs-Élysée: WENT SHOPPING! This did not last long, however. The first short dress I tried on have halted all of my clothing shopping indefinitely. Talk about poor self-esteem moment. I regarded myself in the mirror and the only thing I could see or think was, "whose thighs are those?! they are not mine" but mine they were. Ugh. No more new clothes in France for me... or possibly ever until I get my act together.

After that painful interlude, I made it to l'Arc de Triomphe, where there was a military ceremony honoring WWII vets going on. It was cool to see, but more military things only made me depressed. I opted to treating myself to a designer wallet on my way to the metro because my old one was falling apart on me and I'm on vacation, so why not?!

After getting out of the metro station, I bought myself dinner to make in the appartment that evening (veggie soup and a whole carton of strawberries for dessert). All was well with the world after a little bit of sleep... although I detest my thighs. That's not going away ever.

The first day of March was an ego-boosting day. The universe sensed that I needed it. The day was absolutely gorgeous, so I headed to my favorite part of the city: Montmartre. The highest point in Paris, it is also the most beautiful:

This is Sacre Coeur-- Sacred Heart Basilica-- and it's absolutely gorgeous inside. I explored the garden below it for a bit, then stopped to listen to a harpist. It was gorgeous and I sat myself down on the stairs to listen some more. A man plopped right down next to me and began talking, introducing himself as Mark and confusing me for a native speaker. When I told him I was American, he was absolutely floored. He then proceeded to recount his life's story and offered to show me around. I agreed, of course. It's not every day that one recieves such an offer from a Parisien.

He took me through all the neighborhood gardens, showed me the vinyard on Montmartre, told me of the music and wine festivals there, directed me to the café from the film Amélie, guided me through the cemetery, and directed me by this:

That's right: I had never seen it before. Here you go!

After that, he bought wine and cheese and olives and apples and bread and we had a picnic in the park right below Sacre Coeur. Afterwards, he offered to show me around some more, and we ended up on the stairs of the operahouse. He was showering me with compliments and telling me I was beautiful. That was all well and good... until he tried to kiss me on parting. Aw, HELL NO! Sorry, Mark, but no. However, I do have Mark's phone number and email. Not sure if I want to hang out again, though. We shall see. It was flattering, none the less.

After this, I headed all the way across town to get my hair cut. It is short! And I love it. Pics to follow, worry not.

For dinner, I went with Sofia and Perrine to a friend's appartment for a lovely girl's-night-in. Flor was a wonderful hostess. It was her going-away party, as she is leaving for Portland, Oregon on Friday and will be living and working there for the next six months. Snacks and pizza and all was well with the world.

Today, I felt a little under the weather this morning and stayed in the appartment all day watching movies and playing sudoku... riveting, I know.

I was feeling much better by the evening, and went out with Sofia and Perrine to the greatest mexican restaurant ever! Seriously, it was scrumptious. It's called Casa Palenque, and while the guacamole left something to be desired, my principle dish was superb. Nothing short of perfection. It was as if the Aztec gods had blessed me with their own personal source of nourrishment. And 3 hours later, I still couldn't eat another thing.

On the way home, we sat next to a man with a sketchbook and a brush pen. He was sketching faces on the train and they were beautiful. His next subject was... me?! Oh, it was flattering on so many levels. Perhaps my face will become a part of a greater work, or maybe it will never leave the pages of that sketchbook. Regardless, being someone's model for a few minutes was exhilirating.

Anything goes in Paris.

Can't wait to see what tomorrow brings!